Gunsmith Screwdrivers For Antique Guns - Recommendations ?

sheriffjohn

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Problem: Many, if not most, original antique percussion & flintlocks I fool with have screw slots that are not flat on the bottom, but tapered. Many are very thin and the screws not hardened. Buggered up slots due to ill-fitting drivers can ruin a gun in nanoseconds. Many modern firearms likewise have slots that are not commonly found in the "gunsmith screwdriver sets". What have you found to address this problem?

I don't need torx, phillips, etc. etc. included in the sets widely offered. Drivers suited for really good guns - like your skeet guns, safe queens, and valuable originals. Thin, assorted widths, tapering. Thanks.
 
I have had the same situation many times while repairing antique guns, sometimes, I got lucky and had a quality standard screwdriver that would fit. The ones that worked for me were either Snap On or older Craftsman. More often, I had to grind one to fit. When I had to grind one I went to great lengths to get the fit as close as possible. I feel your frustration, those old handmade screws are the worst, very soft and it’s nearly impossible to make a replacement look right. I used a quality screwdriver as close as I could get to the size I needed, I’ve never counted them but I bet if I dug them all out I probably have 40 or 50 reground Bonanza, Grace and Brownell’s screwdrivers laying around.

Occasionally, I had to make a screwdriver from scratch, that was pretty rare though.

I’m sure you probably already know this but Kroil is the best penetrating oil I’ve ever used to help free up those old screws. Sometimes I would just let it soak for a couple of days.
 
I have had the same situation many times while repairing antique guns, sometimes, I got lucky and had a quality standard screwdriver that would fit. The ones that worked for me were either Snap On or older Craftsman. More often, I had to grind one to fit. When I had to grind one I went to great lengths to get the fit as close as possible. I feel your frustration, those old handmade screws are the worst, very soft and it’s nearly impossible to make a replacement look right. I used a quality screwdriver as close as I could get to the size I needed, I’ve never counted them but I bet if I dug them all out I probably have 40 or 50 reground Bonanza, Grace and Brownell’s screwdrivers laying around.

Occasionally, I had to make a screwdriver from scratch, that was pretty rare though.

I’m sure you probably already know this but Kroil is the best penetrating oil I’ve ever used to help free up those old screws. Sometimes I would just let it soak for a couple of days.
I appreciate your reply. Kroil is my best friend. I've used it on many things, including old farm implements with lichens growing on the nuts/bolts. I've tried others, but Kroil really works. I'm always amazed at the precision of early gunmakers' skills.

One project currently is an 1855-1859 English percussion double 12 gauge sold to me as a wallhanger with one barrel plugged and the tennon held on with JB Weld. Got the obstruction removed (ancient cleaning swab & ackumpucky) and both original nipples free. Profusely engraved, etc., underneath the rust and caked-on dirt is a well-worn but salvageable/shootable 12 gauge. BUT ...every screw is the super - fine slotted type that don't have flat bottoms. The drivers must've been more like chisels and the sizes are different according to what each one secures.

Question - after you grind to fit, do you re-harden the screwdriver ? Heat & quench ?
 
I appreciate your reply. Kroil is my best friend. I've used it on many things, including old farm implements with lichens growing on the nuts/bolts. I've tried others, but Kroil really works. I'm always amazed at the precision of early gunmakers' skills.

One project currently is an 1855-1859 English percussion double 12 gauge sold to me as a wallhanger with one barrel plugged and the tennon held on with JB Weld. Got the obstruction removed (ancient cleaning swab & ackumpucky) and both original nipples free. Profusely engraved, etc., underneath the rust and caked-on dirt is a well-worn but salvageable/shootable 12 gauge. BUT ...every screw is the super - fine slotted type that don't have flat bottoms. The drivers must've been more like chisels and the sizes are different according to what each one secures.

Question - after you grind to fit, do you re-harden the screwdriver ? Heat & quench ?
I did until I ran out of Kasenit. After that, I just did my best not to get them too hot.
 
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Those would still need to be ground to fit. Most of the screws that Sherriffjohn is talking about were made entirely by hand 150+ years ago.
Other than factory-made (i.e. Colt, U.S. Martial firearms, etc.), Bobcat is exactly right. Back in the day, many gunsmiths bought locks from lock makers (Goulcher, etc.) and also barrels/blanks and built guns using purchased parts with their own twist. Others built from scratch, more or less, but those in later years became fewer. Damascus shotgun barrels were beyond the skillset of most American makers but mastered in Europe for hundreds of years.

The purchased locks I've found are almost identical with some parts interchangeable or at least workable with a bit of tinkering. My fondness for M/L shotguns is more challenging than with typical M/L rifles since the double barrels were frequently imported from England and Belgium where guilds demanded a higher level of craftsmanship. Hand engraving of not only lock plates, but even screws can be ruined by an ill-fitting screwdriver.

My present "project is an English 12 bore SxS from 1855-1859. Bought as a wall hanger, it's on the way to becoming a shooter, but stalled b/c to repair a cracked stock, removal of some of the tiny screws is required. Likewise, another 12 bore and screw barrel pistol are works in progress but waiting for the proper tools. It's all fun, just frustrating sometimes.

Thanks for the help.
 
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